Turkey: Between West and East
Turkey, which emerged from the turmoil of the 1st World War in 1923 as the successor state of the Ottoman Empire, is a country rich in history and tradition. 97% of its strategic position is in Asia Minor between the eastern Mediterranean in the south, the Aegean in the west and the Black Sea in the north at one of the most important points of intersection between west and east. The Asian land border divides Turkey with Syria and Iraq in the south, Iran in the east and Azerbaijan, Armenia and Georgia in the northeast. 3% of Turkey is in Europe, i.e. in the eastern part of historical Thrace with land borders with Greece and Bulgaria. Between the European and Asian parts of Turkey lie the Dardanelles, the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus, which connects the Black Sea with the Aegean Sea and the rest of the Mediterranean. Thousands of years before the 11th century. Turkish people immigrating from Asia, who finally banished the Byzantine Empire to the history books, this region was a very interesting piece of earth for Hittites, Greeks, Lydians, Persians, Romans and, in the Middle Ages, also for Arabs and Latins, who left their traces here.
The Turkish west coast is not only scenic with its countless bays and the blue water typical of the Aegean Sea, but also truly peppered with ancient Greek and Roman sites, such as Miletus (Militos), Efes (Ephesos) and today’s million-dollar city of Izmir (Smyrna), whose visit should be included in a sailing vacation. Not to forget, of course, Troy at the entrance to the Dardanelles, made famous primarily by Homer and his story of the Trojan War, with a total of 10 settlement layers from the 5th millennium BC to the 4th century. A.D. A visit to Istanbul is of course also recommended, the former Constantinople, the venerable capital of the Eastern Roman and Byzantine Empire and largest European city of the Middle Ages, where approx. 660 BC. Greek colonists from Megara, Argos and Corinth under the leadership of the military leader Byzas founded the place Byzantion.
In Istanbul there are a number of historical sights from bygone times, such as the approx. 3500 year old obelisk of Pharaoh Thutmose III., Aghia Sophia, the largest church of Eastern Christianity from the 4th century, which served as a mosque for centuries and is now a museum. The Constantine Column in honor of the Roman emperor at the time, whose foundation is said to contain parts of the cross of Jesus, the ax of Noah and the staff of Moses, as well as the Valens aqueduct, which supplied the city with water from the Belgrade forest, also date from the same century. From the 5th century. come from the Theodosian walls, which are 7 kilometers long and still characterize the cityscape today. From the 10th century is the brick column that Emperor Constantine VII had built. After the conquest by the Ottomans in 1453, the Topkapi Palace was built, which served as the residence of the Ottoman sultans. From the 17th century. This is where the imposing Sultan Ahmed Mosque, also known as the Blue Mosque, comes from. Of course, the bay of the Golden Horn, which cuts deep inland and is named after the mythical mother of the founder of Byzantion, is also worth seeing. Istanbul also has a modern, pulsating nightlife to offer for your evening out.
The Aegean coast: from bay to bay
The yacht charter area off the coast of Asia Minor has become an enchanting destination for sailing vacationers in recent years. Countless idyllic anchorage bays with largely untouched landscapes on the coast, with picturesque fishing villages await the visitor, and the many ancient cities from Greek and Roman times are interesting destinations for shore leave. In particular between Çesme and Antalya there are more bays than a year counts days.
In the hot midsummer, the offshore Greek islands ensure that the Meltemi, which then gives a little freshness, blows more moderately off the coast of Asia Minor than further west around the Greek islands in the central Aegean. In spring and autumn, the temperatures are a bit more pleasant and nature is colorfully preparing for summer or recuperating from it in autumnal splendor.
From June to September, shore excursions to the ancient sites in Asia Minor and the picturesque villages with their cozy taverns and local specialties are recommended, but also the enjoyment of the warm waters of the Aegean Sea and the beautiful beaches, where local and foreign visitors come loll in the Mediterranean sun.
West Coast
Turkish west coast: endless bays and islands
The yacht charter area off the Turkish west coast has been opened up bit by bit for about three decades. Today, when going ashore you can find countless, picturesque bays, pretty fishing villages and the ancient sites from Greek and Roman times and also a number of modern marinas that offer their services at a high level and contribute to the growth of sailing tourism in Turkey.
The fresh summer wind Meltemi ensures slightly lower temperatures in the northern Aegean than in the areas of the southern Aegean. Between Kuşadasi and the Hellespont, today called the Dardanelles, the Turkish west coast is not yet as accessible for sailing trips as the more southern parts. The western Turkish landscape is dominated by wooded hills, fertile valleys, through which rivers such as the Little Meander, the Great Meander, the Hermos and the Kaikos, already known from antiquity, flow, as well as the promontories protruding far into the Aegean Sea with their many bays and charming Beaches.
The visitor should definitely plan enough time for his sailing holiday in Turkey to go ashore to look at the ancient archaeological sites of Ephesus, Priene, Miletus (Miletos), Herakleia or Didyma, the most important oracle of ancient Ionia.
Territory properties
The sailing area of the northern Aegean offers good sailing winds and not too hot summers. On the western Turkish coast, the Meltemi blows from north to northeast in the summer months. Local breezes are also generated in the Gulf of Edremit and the Gulf of Candarli. In the straits and around the capes, the wind force can be up to 7 Beaufort. After 5:00 p.m. the wind speed usually decreases. On the days when this does not happen, you should expect gusts of fall, even in sheltered bays. In autumn and spring the wind blows partly from the south or south-east. The best sailing time is from mid-May to mid-September.
The yacht charter area on the Turkish west coast is moderately difficult. Caution is advised when approaching Ayvalik, because not every beacon on the map is lit. You should also keep a distance from the underwater rocks in Tatlisu Körfezi, the reefs in front of the entrance to Badeli Limani and around the Bozburun Islands, the rocky reefs in the Foca Archipelago, the underwater rocks in Ildir Körfezi, in Mersin Körfezi and in front of the entrance to Sigacik Limani as well stop from the Eastern Cape of Doganbey Island.
Turkish coast: In Ayvalik, embedded in a lagoon-like environment, there is a modern, well-equipped marina. There are other modern marinas in Çeşme, Sığacık, Kuşadasi, Alaçati and Didim. There are protected community harbors, for example, in Dalyanköy, Foça or Körmen Adasi with their berths well protected to the north. For a sailing trip from Alacati or Ayvalik, which includes the Greek islands, about 14 days should be planned.
Greek islands of the East Aegean: The Greek islands of Lesbos, Chios, Inousses, Psara, Samos, Fourni, Patmos, Leros, Lipsi, Ikaria, Kalymnos, Pserimos, Farmakonisi, Agathonisi, Nisyros, off the west coast of Asia Minor, offer many protected natural harbors. From Symi and Tilos it is also not far to Rhodes. There are marinas on Lesbos, Samos, Leros, Kos and Rhodes.
A valid passport or identity card is required to enter Turkey. The skipper must have an official driver’s license for yachts with coastal navigation. When taking over the yacht, the base manager hands over the transit log. This is the official permit for sailing on the Turkish coast. The document must be presented on request. Important: Since April 10, 2014, travelers from Austria, Belgium, Croatia, the Republic of Cyprus, Hungary, Ireland, Malta, the Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Spain and the United Kingdom can only obtain a visa via an e-Visa procedure.
Bodrum Peninsula and Gulf of Kerme (Gökova): Sailing near St. Tropez, Turkey
The country’s sailing center is located in southwestern Turkey. The port city of Bodrum, located on the headland of the same name at the entrance to the Gulf of Kerme (Gökova), has been nicknamed “St. Tropez of Turkey ”. The Bodrum Cup Race takes place here every October. In Bodrum, the Halicarnassus of antiquity, there are the ruins of the tomb of Mausolos, a Persian satrap from the 4th century. B.C. This mausoleum of Halicarnassus was built between the 12th and 15th centuries and destroyed by earthquake and human interference. In the harbor basin is the fortress of St. Peter of the Order of St. John, which houses the local museum for underwater archeology and consists partly of building material from the mausoleum. However, modern Bodrum not only has a rich history, but also a vibrant present with a large number of restaurants, bars, clubs and cultural institutions. Rich people from all over the world give their presence here.
The Gulf of Kerme, also called the Gulf of Gökova, is the Gulf of Keramos, known from ancient times, named after the ancient Greek city of Keramos, the ruins of which are located at today’s Ören on the north coast of the Gulf. It extends 50 nm to the east inland. In the west of the bay, the Greek island of Kos lies in front of the Turkish mainland. The Gulf of Kerme is closed to the south by the Datça peninsula. The landscape in the north on the headland of Bodrum is rather barren. Towards the east it gets greener and rises to about 900 m. The south coast of the Gulf is lush with its evergreen pine and oak forests, cypresses, juniper bushes and incense trees.
Along the coast of Asia Minor there are countless taverns and restaurants where you can try the delicious local cuisine. In many bays there are moorings where you can moor your yacht and get water and electricity.
The west coast of the Bodrum peninsula is bare and many places have been built with holiday home areas. The pretty natural harbor of Gümüşlük, the ancient Myndos, is well protected and only open to the south. Well-equipped marinas are located in Turgutreis to the south and Yalikavak to the north-west. There are first class fish restaurants in Gümüşlük. The Greek islands of Leros, Kalymnos, Pserimos and Kos are within sight of Gümüşlük, Turgutreis and.
On the north coast of the Bodrum Peninsula there are a number of beautiful and protected bays from Yalikavak to Güllük, such as Asin Limani, the ancient Greek Iassos, or Gündoğan, Göltürkbükü and the bay of Torba and Güvercinlik. To the north is Didim, near the archaeological site of Didyma, one of the most important sacred sites of the ancient Greek world in Asia Minor.
Territory properties
In summer, winds up to 5 Beaufort blow into the Gulf of Kerme. In the afternoon the wind blows on the north coast of the Gulf from west to west-north-west, on the south coast initially from west, later in the day from west-south-west. You have to be prepared for a cross course if you want to sail out of the gulf during the day. Stormy southeast winds must also be expected in spring and autumn. The best sailing time is from May to October.
It is a medium difficult sailing area. Falling gusts occur with north winds. On the north side of the gulf there is an easterly current.
The Turkish nautical charts are very precise. Terrestrial navigation with a compass and a nautical chart is sufficient. Caution: When approaching Bodrum, the Dikilitaş rock bank south of Harem Burnu on port side must be observed.
On the Bodrum peninsula there are three large, modern marinas with water and electricity supplies, showers and toilets, provisions and shopping facilities and WiFi. The Milta Marina in Bodrum is an ideal starting point for trips into the Gulf of Kerme (Gökova). On the west coast of the peninsula are the Marina D-Marin in Turgutreis and a little further north the Marina Port Bodrum in Yalikavak. The Sunsail flotilla charter also starts in Turgutreis, with difficulty level 2 being more suitable for experienced sailors.
Çökertme: Between Bodrum and Ören on the north side of the Gulf of Kerme (Gökova) Çökertme is a protected anchorage in a charming bay that is open to the south. Other beautiful anchorages in the Gulf of Kerme (Gökova) are the lagoon behind the Seven Islands or the Degirmen Bükü bay with English Harbor, so named because British warships were based there in World War II. Sehir Adasi, also called Cleopatra’s Beach (Cleopatra Adasi), on a small islet off the south coast of the Gulf of Kerme, is also very popular. Cleopatra is said to have had a good time here with Mark Antony.
Karaca söğüt: At this place in Karaca Limani you will find a well-protected anchorage. In the Marti Marina with the Karacasöğüt Beach Club there are also good supply options. Büyük Cati should be preferred in heavy seas instead of Küçük Cati, as there is then a strong swell. In the bays you lie protected in untouched nature, so there are no provisions here. The sandy anchorage in both bays offers a good hold for the anchor.
Mersincik: The beautiful bay of Mersincik is the last anchorage on the way west along the north coast of the Datça peninsula. There are no catering options here either.
A valid passport or identity card is required to enter Turkey. The skipper must have an official driver’s license for yachts with coastal navigation. When taking over the yacht, the base manager hands over the transit log. This is the official permit for sailing on the Turkish coast. The document must be presented on request. Important: Since April 10, 2014, travelers from Austria, Belgium, Croatia, the Republic of Cyprus, Hungary, Ireland, Malta, the Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Spain and the United Kingdom can only obtain a visa via an e-Visa procedure.
Scheduled flights with Turkish Airlines via Istanbul are offered from all major German airports. SunExpress offers flights from Frankfurt, Düsseldorf, Munich, Hanover, Stuttgart and Cologne to Bodrum. Pegasus Airlines offers flights via Istanbul – Sabiha Gokcen.
A visit to the crusader castle St. Peter in the harbor basin of Bodrum with its underwater museum, which is well worth seeing. Here a wreck from the Bronze Age stands out, which was lifted together with cargo and equipment.
Marmaris and Hisarönü Bay: Picturesque bays – ancient sites
The Datça peninsula, the Knidic peninsula of antiquity, ends in the west opposite the Greek island of Kos. In a protected position behind the cape are the ruins of the city of Knidos, which is said to have been founded by Doric settlers and is also called in Homer’s “Hymn to Apollo”. In this city with agora, grammar school and theater, which became rich through maritime trade and founded a colony in the Adriatic, there were temples dedicated to the Greek deities Aphrodite, Dionysus, Apollo and the Muses, as well as sanctuaries of Artemis, Hermes and Demeter and Asklipeios (Asclepius).
South of the Datça peninsula with its high mountains and wooded valleys lies the Gulf of Hisarönü. East of Datça on the south coast of the peninsula is a nature reserve with lush vegetation and idyllic bays. There are also numerous picturesque bays to explore on the south side of the Gulf of Hisarönü between Hisarönü, Orhaniye, Selimiye and Dirsek Bükü. To the south, further picturesque and protected bays await you on the mainland of Asia Minor, such as that of Yeşilova near Bozburun. In front of the Gulf of Hisarönü is the Greek island of Symi, where there are also many sheltered anchor bays.
From Kadirga Burnu, the coast of Asia Minor runs in this yacht charter area again in a north-northwest direction to the bay of Marmaris, which is surrounded by forested mountains. The islet of Keci Adasi and the Yildiz Adasi peninsula at the entrance to the bay offer suitable protection to the south and southeast.
Territory properties
During summer months, the Aegean Meltemi blows along the coast to the west and in the interior of the Gulf from a south-westerly direction. Strong falling gusts can occur under the coast and in the bays between Knidos and Inceburun. In the bay of Yesilova the wind comes from west to south-west directions. A swell builds up by noon and after sunset the wind usually falls asleep. Caution is advised at night in the bays of Bozukkale and Serce, which are 10 nautical miles across from the Greek island of Rhodes, due to falling gusts. The best sailing time is from May to October.
It is an easy to moderately difficult sailing area.
The Turkish nautical charts are very precise. Terrestrial navigation with a compass and a nautical chart is sufficient. Caution: Sail around the flooded shoal Atabol Kayasi approx. 600 m before Atabol Burnu with enough distance.
There are a number of beautiful bays to anchor, such as those in Bozukkale and Serce. Marti Marina is located in Orhaniye Bay. Datça has a small protected municipal port. In Marmaris there is the Netsel Marina and a little south the Marmaris Yacht Marina on the Yildiz Adasi peninsula.
A valid passport or identity card is required to enter Turkey. The skipper must have an official driver’s license for yachts with coastal navigation. When taking over the yacht, the base manager hands over the transit log. This is the official permit for sailing on the Turkish coast. The document must be presented on request. Important: Since April 10, 2014, travelers from Austria, Belgium, Croatia, the Republic of Cyprus, Hungary, Ireland, Malta, the Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Spain and the United Kingdom can only obtain a visa via an e-Visa procedure.
Condor offers flights to Dalaman on Saturdays (sometimes Mondays) from all major German airports. TUIfly offers flights to Dalaman every Friday. Turkish Airlines has daily connections via Istanbul. Pegasus Airlines offers flights from some airports via Istanbul-Sabiha Gokcen.
In Orhaniye you can walk on the water, so to speak, in an estuary located there due to the existing spit, which reaches just below the surface of the water. Be careful when approaching this point.
Göcek and the Gulf of Fethiye: North Lydian coast
The southwestern coast of Asia Minor between Marmaris and Fethiye is marked by numerous bays and forested mountains, especially from Köycegiz Limani, where the Dalyan river meanders through the reed labyrinth on its way to the sea. On the beach there, the endangered sea turtle Caretta Caretta lays her eggs in the sand. A day trip to the site of ancient Kaunos, which was founded in the 9th century BC or earlier and lasted until around 200 BC. was by the sea, is very recommendable. The famous Lycian rock tombs and sulfur springs are also nearby.
The starting point for sailing trips in this yacht charter area is Göcek. This little town is protected by offshore islands in the northern corner of the Gulf of Fethiye, which has many small bays and islets in its northern and northwestern part. Behind Göcek, the wooded slopes of the Taurus Mountains, which are partly covered with snow on its peaks even in spring, begin. In the southern part of the Gulf of Fethiye, the place of the same name is located in a small bay protected by the Oyuk peninsula.
For every weather condition, a safe anchorage can be found on the coast of ancient Lycia and especially in the Gulf of Fethiye, and remnants from ancient times can be found here in practically every bay. Therefore you should plan at least two weeks in this area.
The Gulf of Fethiye is very suitable for family sailing trips or for flotilla sailing. Göcek is the port of departure for Sunsail’s one- and two-week flotilla events.
Territory properties
The climate is typically Mediterranean with dry and hot summer months, whereby the heat from the Meltemi is bearable. The Meltemi blows from mid-June to the end of September in this sailing area, mostly from late morning until sunset, where it reaches its greatest strength with up to 6 Beaufort in the afternoon. Along the coast outside of Fethiye Bay, the sailing wind blows from the north-west in summer. In the gulf itself it comes from the southwest. Heavy falling gusts can occur on the west side of the gulf. Long chain and land line in the wind direction are recommended during the yacht vacation in this area for a safe berth. In spring and autumn, low pressure areas can move through the region. Violent thunderstorms can also occur in autumn. The best sailing time is from May to November.
The Turkish nautical charts are very precise. Terrestrial navigation with a compass and a nautical chart is sufficient. In bays where there are taverns, there is usually a jetty.
Provisioning is easily possible in the port cities of Göcek and Fethiye. Shops are open until midnight every day. Most of the anchor bays have taverns where you can satisfy your hunger with Turkish specialties. Fresh bread, crepes, böreks or ice cream are often offered on small wooden boats right next to the yacht.
Fethiye: There are two modern marinas here: the Ece Marina near the city and the Yes Marina, which is deeper in the bay.
Ekincik: The My Marina Yacht Club in Ekincik is a well-kept marina that offers all the usual services. From here you can start the day trip to Dalyan. In the park-like complex there is a restaurant on the terrace above with a view of the Bay of Köyceğiz.
Western Gulf of Fethiye: In the western part of the gulf, e.g. the Farmer’s Bay, Manastir, Kücük Sarsala and the Quellen-Bay are recommended as anchorages.
Göcek: Göcek is the starting point for yacht charter in this sailing area. Therefore there are several modern marinas like the Port Göcek Marina, the Marinturk Gocek Village Port Marina, the Club Marina (in the small bay opposite Göcek), the Scopia Marina and the Göcek Marina, which offer the usual services.
Gemiler Reede: There are a number of attractive bays for anchoring, such as Karacaören on the west side or the north side of the small island Gemiler with its medieval town ruins and Bestas Köyü, the “bay of the cold springs”. Bestas Köyü is quite agitated until sunset, but in the evening you lie there very quietly and idyllically. We recommend a hike inland in the morning to the abandoned village of Kayaköy, which today functions as a museum, which was once called Livissi and may be located on the site of the ancient Greek city of Karmylissos. Livissi-Karaköy was inhabited by about 2000 Greeks until the population exchange between Greece and Turkey under the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923.
A valid passport or identity card is required to enter Turkey. The skipper must have an official driver’s license for yachts with coastal navigation. When taking over the yacht, the base manager hands over the transit log. This is the official permit for sailing on the Turkish coast. The document must be presented on request. Important: Since April 10, 2014, travelers from Austria, Belgium, Croatia, the Republic of Cyprus, Hungary, Ireland, Malta, the Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Spain and the United Kingdom can only obtain a visa via an e-Visa procedure.
Condor offers flights to Dalaman on Saturdays (sometimes Mondays) from all major German airports. TUIfly offers flights to Dalaman every Friday. Turkish Airlines has daily connections via Istanbul. Pegasus Airlines offers flights from some airports via Istanbul-Sabiha Gokcen.
Shore excursions to the ancient sites in this region are recommended. In addition, an evening in the My Marina in Ekincik with an excellent dinner with a panoramic view in the Marina Restaurant above is something very special.
South coast: Idyllic bays and beautiful beaches
The section of the coast of Asia Minor from Fethiye to Finike has charming bays for anchoring, as well as cliffs and many beautiful beaches for a swim stop. The offshore islets are mostly uninhabited. This region in southwestern Turkey is ancient Lycia, which is already mentioned in Homer’s epic “Iliad”. After periods of independence, affiliation with the Persian Empire and under Alexander the Great, Lycia was Hellenized, later part of the Roman Empire, then the Eastern Roman or Byzantine Empire and then the Ottoman Empire. The rock tombs and stone sarcophagi in Lycia indicate a prehomeric culture.
The mountains behind Ölüdeniz, covered with lush vegetation, stretch south to Kötü Burun. To the south, along the Yediburunlar, the Seven Cape, the landscape becomes more barren and wild, followed by a plain where the Esençay River flows into the sea. Ancient Xanthos, the capital of Lycia, was once located here. From here, against the backdrop of the Taurus Mountains, a landscape shaped by dunes with white sandy beaches extends to Inceburun. In the hills north of Inceburun lie the ruins of the ancient port city and the Lycian capital Patara, which follows Xanthos. Kalkan, formerly called Kalamaki, is in the next bay. A shore excursion from Kalkan to the ancient sites of Xanthos and Patara is recommended.
Between Kalkan and Kaş, the ancient Antiphellos, it gets more mountainous, there are more cliffs and numerous islands are off the coast. Opposite Kaş is the small Greek island of Megisti, as it was called by the Doric Greeks of antiquity, as well as their two little sisters Ro and Strongyli. Megisti, which can look back on an eventful history of conquests by various powers, is mostly called Kastellorizo today. A detour to this islet with its almost 500 inhabitants today is recommended. During the Second World War, alternating English and Italian fleets maintained a base in Kastellorizo.
The small, picturesque town of Kaş has always been a popular destination for Turkish tourists. Today there is the possibility for sailing holidaymakers either to moor directly in the harbor or in the marina in the bay behind the headland that stretches into the Mediterranean. Between Kaş and Finike, the coast with its mountain ranges runs in an east-northeast direction. One of the favorite stops for yacht vacationers is the Kekova marina near Kaleüçağız in a small, very well protected bay halfway between Kaş and Finike.
After Cape Gelidonya, the coast runs clearly in a north-easterly direction until Kemer is characterized by steep cliffs, offshore islands, forests and beautiful beaches that invite you to stop for a swim. In the background, the Taurus Mountains dominate the backdrop. Then you arrive in Antalya, the ancient Attaleia, founded by Attalus II, King of Pergamon. The port of this lively city is very picturesque, but often quite crowded, especially in the summer months.
East of Antalya to Alanya, a place that can also look back on a history of thousands of years, are the wonderful, white sandy beaches of the Cilician coast, the so-called Turkish Riviera. There are no protected anchorages here.